Holiday rentals in Polzeath

With the upmarket charms of Rock drawing attention just a couple of miles away, this seaside village in North Cornwall has remained a lesser-known beach haven, popular with families. The mellow Atlantic waves can be tackled by novice surfers, and at low tide there’s an immense stretch of sand to be enjoyed — you’re even allowed to park your car on the beach here. The natural beauty and abundant wildlife of the neighbouring Camel Estuary are an additional bonus. In Polzeath, you’re likely to spot dolphins off the coast, a puffin perched on a rock, or an otter in the river. With the South West Coast Path passing straight through the village, you’re only a short walk from the gorgeous Daymer Bay to the south, or the panoramic views of Pentire Head to the north. Not that you have to put in the steps to get the most of the area: The village has a handful of lovely pubs, cafes, and restaurants to keep you happy.

The warmest month of the year, August is when Polzeath is at its busiest. The village holds its two-day Polzeath Beer and Music Festival at the start of the month, while the Sky Bar pops up a little later for its après-surf event with DJ and dancing. If you want a quieter summer holiday, consider coming earlier or later in the season. Spring and autumn can get plenty of sunshine (if rarely warm enough for sunbathing), and the waves are good for surfing all year round, even in the winter; there’s also an extremely bracing tradition of a Christmas Day swim! The north Cornwall countryside is in bloom between March and May. There’s a Cornwall Spring Flower Show held in nearby Wadebridge, and just across the estuary in Padstow, May Day is celebrated with the colourful annual Obby Oss festival.

The Rumps

To the north of Pentire Point, across a narrow isthmus, is this whale-tail-shaped promontory. Its curiously lumpy headland was once an Iron Age fort, a series of ditches, ramparts, and hut circles uncovered 50 years ago. It’s a wondrous spot for looking out across the Atlantic to the Mouls, an offshore rock that’s a breeding spot for gannets and kittiwakes.

New Polzeath beach

To the north of the main village is the more recently developed part of the resort, and its smaller beach (easily accessed by footpath) is the place to go if you want a break from all the surfers, and to have a peaceful swim. There’s a waterfront café open in summer and plenty of rockpools to explore.

St Enodoc Church

Halfway between Polzeath and Rock nestled curiously among the dunes overlooking Daymer Bay is this tiny 12th-century chapel. Its ancient stone walls and wonky spire would be atmospheric enough by themselves, but the graveyard contains another secret: the tombstone of poet laureate Sir John Betjeman, who is buried here.